STOP 4
Picnic Area
Turn north from the Tourist Association parking lot, proceed across
CR 270, past the cannon, and go .68 mile to the second entrance of the
picnic area. Once across CR 270, you are on the Collins Parkway, which
leads eventually to the VMI Museum.
When you reach the crest of Manor Hill, .2 mile from CR 270, notice
the buildings on the west. The 18th Connecticut skirmishers set up along
here forward of the empty restaurant building. As quoted from Maj. Henry
Peale, 18th Connecticut,
We here awaited the approach of the enemy, whose skirmishers in double
line could be seen issuing from the woods covering his position. The artillery
duel still continued with considerable vigor, and the enemy shelled our
line with great accuracy, although without inflicting any considerable
damage. Companies A & B were immediately deployed, and descended the
hill. Severe skirmishing shortly ensued.
The enemy in three strong lines, now issued from the woods and charged
down the hill at double quick, his skirmishers also increasing their step
and driving ours more rapidly.
It was at this time decided that a small knoll, some 200 yards to the
rear, would afford a better position, especially for the artillery, which
could inflict greater damage upon the enemy who would be forced to pass
over an eighth of a mile of nearly level ground before reaching our lines.
The line accordingly marched in retreat.
And as Maj. R. F. Lang, 1st West Virginia, recalled,
In the center just on the left of the Valley turnpike through my strong
field glasses I beheld an unfamiliar sight for the battlefield, a body
of several hundred with bright uniforms, shining swords. . . . polished
buttons, and handsome flags . . . kept the alignment perfect . . . on came
the line, and on came the bright uniforms.
Another .3 mile will take you to the vestiges of River Road that
have survived west of the interstate. Notice that you are on a parallel
with St. Matthew's Lutheran Church, whose spire you can see to the east.
This marks the western part of Colonel Moor's line and was held by the
remainder of the 18th Connecticut. Ewing's guns were about 100 yards west
down River Road. In his official report Major Peale stated,
The new position of the regiment was most unfortunate . . . being
in a lane backed by barns and two rows of fence. A continuous rain of 5
days had rendered traveling on other than the roads extremely difficult,
and the men stood knee deep in mud. As the lane was entered by the flank,
so nothing but a flank movement could extricate the regiment in order.
Companies A & B [skirmishing forward] were now strengthened by Company
D, leaving only 4 companies in line, in all somewhat less than 200 men.
The skirmishers of the enemy now appeared on the brow of the hill and
rapid firing ensued. . . . As our skirmishers retired around our flank,
the line fired several volleys, when it became apparent that the line of
the enemy greatly outnumbered our own . . . the order to retreat . . .
was followed [starting on left brigade]. The regiment, marching by the
flank at a double quick, on emerging from the lane found itself some distance
in rear of the retreating line and was thereby thrown into some confusion,
but with some exceptions the men were rallied, and were reformed.
And as Adjutant E. B. Culver, 18th Connecticut, wrote,
It was no wonder there was some confusion in the retreat, the ground
being in horrible condition; the mud so deep from previous rains that it
was almost impossible to keep in line when no hasty movement was required.
And to add to the confusion the rain began to pour again in torrents, greatly
retarding the progress.
A final .2 mile brings you to the picnic grounds maintained by the VMI
Museum. Pull in here and park. Looking east, you have a good view of
the New Market Gap, Rice House, and the school that marks the area of McLaughlin's
next-to-last artillery position. A few yards south, in the other part of
the picnic area, the cadets sustained two more casualties, while another
two were incurred about 50 yards to the northwest of where you are. The
area was swept by intense federal artillery fire. According to Cadet Howard,
Fifty yards or so to our right was a Confederate officer who had been
wounded and was lying nearly prostrate on the ground. Not quite, however;
he was resting on his left elbow, and, forgetful of self, apparently oblivious
of his wounds, his handsome young face shone brightly and his sword waved
from side to side in sympathetic encouragement of his comrades. Another
shell exploded and he was cut down for the second time. Prostrate now,
and with the "Last Roll Call" sounding in his ears, the heroic soul still
waved [his sword] back and forth under the self-renunciatory impulse of
the life leaving the earth and to its acclaim in heaven. If it may be so
vouchsafed, I pray that I may meet this knight of the bloody plain there
on the bloodless plain hereafter, amid the vales of verdure and glades
of ever-flowing green, and let him gather from my face how he has been
borne for more than half a century in the breast of one, at least, in cherishing,
revering admiration.
What effect that waving sword may have had as a cheering incentive on
anyone else—for many beside myself must have
witnessed the incident—I do not know, but I know
there was no giving back as we pressed forward through the storm.
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